Drag an orange dot to resize; a dashed line shows when it snaps to a common size. Click a dot, then use the arrow keys to nudge 1/8″ (hold Shift for 1″). Every size can also be typed in the panel.
Checks
- The shelf passes the sag check.
- This piece must be fixed to the wall. The hardware and step are included.
- 2 hinges per door (9 lb, 32 7/8″ tall).
Shopping list
| Qty | Item | Est. |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1×2 pine board, 6′ (board) | $4.20 |
| 1 | 3/4″ birch plywood, 4×8 sheet (sheet) | $68.00 |
| 1 | 1/4″ plywood, 4×8 sheet (sheet) | $28.00 |
| 1 | Full-overlay cabinet hinge (pair) | $9.00 |
| 1 | Cabinet pull (each) | $4.00 |
| 1 | 5/8″ pan-head screws (slides, hinges) (box of 100) | $6.00 |
| 1 | 1 5/8″ wood screws (box of 100) | $9.00 |
| 1 | 1″ brad nails (box of 1000) | $6.00 |
| 1 | Wood glue (bottle) | $5.00 |
| 1 | 3/4″ iron-on birch edge banding (25 ft roll) | $9.00 |
| 1 | 1/4″ shelf pins (pack of 16) | $5.00 |
| 1 | Felt floor pads (pack) | $5.00 |
| 1 | Furniture anti-tip kit (stud mount) (kit) | $9.00 |
About $167 · rough estimates, check the store
Parts
| Part | Qty | Length | Width | Material | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Side Edge-band the front edge. | 2 | 36″ | 16″ | 3/4″ birch plywood |
| B | Top and bottom | 2 | 16 5/8″ | 15 3/4″ | 3/4″ birch plywood |
| C | Back | 1 | 33″ | 18″ | 1/4″ plywood |
| D | Kick board | 1 | 16 5/8″ | 3″ | 3/4″ birch plywood |
| E | Adjustable shelf Edge-band the front edge. | 1 | 16 9/16″ | 15″ | 3/4″ birch plywood |
| G | Shelf edge strip Glue under the shelf front, flush with the edge. | 1 | 16 9/16″ | 1 1/2″ | 1×2 pine board |
| F | Door Edge-band all four edges. | 1 | 32 7/8″ | 17 7/8″ | 3/4″ birch plywood |
Cut list
3/4″ birch plywood, sheet 1 of 1
1/4″ plywood, sheet 1 of 1
1×2 pine board, 72″ → G 16 9/16″
Kerf 1/8″ included. Every cut runs edge to edge.
Have the store cut it
Most home centers rip sheets on their panel saw. Show them this; do the short crosscuts at home.
- 3/4″ birch plywood: rip into strips 17 7/8″, 16″, 3″, keep the rest.
- 1/4″ plywood: rip into strips 18″, keep the rest.
Steps
- Tape measure
- Speed square
- Pencil
- Drill/driver
- Clamps
- Safety glasses
- Hearing protection
- Dust mask
- Circular saw and a straight edge (or have the store cut the sheets)
- Hammer
- Stud finder
- Level
- Sander, 120 and 180 grit
1Before you start
Read every step once, start to finish, before you buy or cut anything. Each step names the parts it uses by letter; the parts list gives their sizes.
Set up somewhere flat with good light. A pair of sawhorses with a sheet of plywood on top makes a fine work table.
Wear safety glasses whenever a tool is running, hearing protection for saws, and a dust mask for sanding and for cutting treated wood or sheet goods. Tie back long hair and loose sleeves. Keep children and pets out of the work area.
- Tip At the store, pick straight boards: hold each one up to your eye and look down its length. Skip boards that bow, twist or have big knots near the ends.
- Tip Measure twice, cut once. Most mistakes are a misread tape, not a bad cut.
2Cut and label the parts
Cut every part on the cut list. Cut the longest parts first: if one goes wrong, it can still become a shorter part.
To mark a cut, hook your tape on the end of the board, make a small V with its point exactly at the measurement, and draw a square line through the point with a speed square. Put an X on the waste side.
Cut on the waste side of the line, so the blade's kerf (about 1/8″) comes out of the scrap, not your part. Cut sheets with the good face down when using a circular saw: the blade splinters the top face.
Write each part's letter in pencil on a face that won't show, and stack the parts by letter.
Sand the faces before assembly while they're flat and easy to reach: 120 grit, then 180.
✓ Lay the parts out and count them against the parts list. Measure a few: if one is off by more than 1/16″, recut it now.
STOP. Let the saw reach full speed before it touches the wood, keep both hands clear of the blade's path, and never reach under a board you're cutting. Support long boards on both sides of the cut so the blade doesn't pinch.3Edge-band
Iron edge banding onto the front edges of the sides (A) and shelves (E), and all four edges of each door (F). Trim and sand.
4Drill the shelf-pin holes
On the inside of each side, mark two rows 2″ from the front and 2 1/4″ from the back.
Drill 16 holes per row, 1/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep, every 1 1/4″ (32 mm) from 9 11/16″ to 29 5/16″ above the bottom end. A shelf-pin jig or a pegboard template keeps them level.
✓ Holes on both sides line up: a shelf sits level on any four.
5Build the case
Glue and screw the bottom between the sides with its underside at 3″, and the top flush with the top ends. 1 5/8″ screws, 3 per joint.
Screw the kick board (D) under the bottom, 1/2″ back from the front.
Square the case and nail on the back (C).
✓ Diagonals match within 1/16″. A square case is what makes the doors line up.
6Drill the hinge cups
On the back of each door, drill 2 cups with a 35 mm Forstner bit, 1/2″ deep, centers 7/8″ in from the hinge edge, at 3″, 29 7/8″ from the bottom.
Press in the hinges and screw them with 5/8″ screws.
STOP. Set a depth stop on the bit. Drilling through a door front cannot be fixed.7Hang the doors
Screw each mounting plate to the side at the matching height, 37 mm (1 7/16″) from the front edge.
Clip the doors on. Use the hinge screws to set even 1/8″ gaps and level the tops.
Fit the pulls.
✓ Doors close flush with no rubbing, and the gaps are even.
8Stiffen the shelves
Glue a strip (G) under the front of each shelf (E), flush with the front edge. Clamp for 30 minutes.
9Set the shelves
Push 4 pins in at the heights you want and lay each shelf (E) on them. Suggested: 19 1/2″ from the floor.
10Anchor to the wall
Slide a stud finder along the wall behind where the piece will stand and mark the studs.
Fix the anti-tip kit's bracket to the back or top of the piece, then screw its other end into a stud with the screws supplied.
Do not load the piece until it is anchored.
STOP. Confirm the wall type first. Drywall on studs: use the studs. Plaster or masonry: use the kit's matching anchors or ask a pro.11Finish
Ease every sharp edge and corner with 120-grit sandpaper so nobody gets a splinter.
Sand all over with 180 grit, always along the grain (the direction the wood fibres run). Scratches across the grain show through stain.
Wipe off the dust with a barely damp rag and let it dry.
Paint, stain or a clear coat (water-based polyurethane is the easiest). Apply thin coats with the grain, let each dry fully, and sand lightly with 220 grit between coats.
Let it dry for the time on the can before using it.
- Tip Try your finish on a scrap of the same wood first: stain looks different on every board.
Conceptual layout, material estimate and assembly guide from the sizes you entered. Not engineering, not a building plan, not stamped or approved. Confirm measurements on site; follow local codes and product instructions; anchor tall pieces before use. Using this plan means you accept the Terms of Use.